Studio lights and strobes:
Studio lighting flattens features, so contouring is very important. Accent bone structure, and blend into color. Flashes and strobes cause powdered skin to reflect light. Un-powdered skin absorbs light, which can cause powdered areas to look several shades lighter than bare skin. Powder neck, collarbone, and chest to achieve consistent skin tone. Strong lighting washes golden tones from skin. Use warmer colors on cheeks and lips and for contouring. Mauves tend to look muddy, so use truer pinks and wines.
Color Balance:
To achieve uniform skin tone, use the color wheel to balance tones you want to appear neutral. The opposite shade on the color wheel cancels the shade you wish to eliminate.
- Green: cancels red tones from broken capillaries, pimples, bites
- Yellow: cancels purple tones from under eye circles, bruises
- Orange: cancels blue tones in under eye circles, bruises
Setting:
Use makeup appropriate for the content you are shooting. Keep in mind what the focus will be, and how far you will be from the camera. Contour a little more heavily for full-length shots than for headshots. This is only a guide, but may help to get a greater variety of looks into your book. Feel free to experiment!
- Fashion: deep cheek contour, basic lips and eyes.
- Glamour, Swimwear, Lingerie: light cheek contour, accent lips (deep color) or eyes (smokey)
- Beauty, Hairstyle, Swimwear: medium cheek contour, trendy eyes, medium lips.
- Fine art: Neutral colors, accent on bone structure.
- Lifestyle, Fitness: High color cheeks, neutral eyes, bright lips
Model Makeup Bag Basics
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FOUNDATIONS:
Liquid or crème; matching chest
Creme or stick; 2 shades darker than chest
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CONCEALORS:
White
Yellow
Green
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Powders:
Translucent loose
Highlighting (Revlon skinlights are good)
Pressed, matching chest
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TOOLS:
Lash curler
Lash comb
Large, soft powder brush
Wedge shaped sponges (for blending)
Circle or teardrop sponges (for foundation and powder)
Large eye shadow brush
Flat and pointy eye shadow sponge applicators
Small, slightly stiff blush brush
Eyeliner brush
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PENCILS:
Black liner
Basic brown liner (no golden tone)
White liner
Brownish flesh tone lip liner
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SHADOWS:
Ecru (slightly yellow toned) powder
Golden brown powder
Basic brown powder
Charcoal powder
Raisin powder
1 set of fashion colors (no mauves!)
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BLUSHES:
Golden brown (for contouring)
Peach-toned pink
True red
Hot pink
ABSOLUTELY NO MAUVES!
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LIPS:
Basic true red
Brown (not beige) neutral
Wine or raisin
Neutral (not bubble gum!) pink gloss
Bronze gloss
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EXTRAS:
Black mascara
Water mist bottle
Q-tips
Anti-redness eye drops
Lotion
Large powder puff
Razor
Tweezers
Cornstarch-based powder
As many lipsticks as you can carry!
With these colors and tools, you can create many different looks by playing with combinations and color placement and shapes for variety.
Courtesy of MUA Gayle Elizabeth
www.gayle-e.com
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